There had been numerous GSMs before Torbreck Cuvée Juveniles, but the Torbreck team did something more than making an eminently drinkable red – they skillfully marketed it and showed what possibilities that style offered:

2008 Torbreck Cuvée Juveniles (grenache, shiraz, mataro) delivers attention-grabbing plum and mulberry aromas and flavours together with just-right tannins which create a savoury mouthfeel to balance the “sweet” fruit. Here’s a style that  is rapidly becoming a mini-classic.  ($28.00)  Highly Recommended
Screwcap  14.5% LJ

Stephen Pannell is a gifted winemaker, and when he turns his hand to a new blend, it’s well worth taking notice:

2007 S.C. Pannell Pronto Tinto (garnacha, monastrell, syrah and touriga) – that translates to grenache, mourvèdre, shiraz, touriga.  The grenache makes its presence felt initially on both nose and palate with its vibrant red berry aromas and flavours; then the fruit-cake spice of the mourvèdre comes into play while the other varieties give focus and structure to the wine to take it beyond just a simple, fruity red.  Delicious drinking, and as the name says, do it now! Why hadn’t anyone thought of the name “Pronto” before?
 ($27.00) Highly Recommended
Screwcap  14.0% LJ & LS

The 2008 Redhouse Mediterrané (shiraz, tempranillo, sangiovese) contains a total of 60% of the latter two varieties, and, as expected, delivers its share of tannin. However, the firmness is perfectly controlled and integrates beautifully with the plummy-dark cherry fruit. Here we have just the wine to enjoy with top quality sausages or lamb cutlets.  ($22.00)  Highly Recommended
14.0%  Screwcap LJ

Tempranillo is rapidly making its mark in Australia, and is proving suitable to a range of environments. The Adelaide Hills is the home of the 2008 La Linea Tempranillo which leans to the Spanish joven style. The Tempranillo tannins are there, but they are carried with poise by the delicious licorice-tinged red berry fruit. Here’s a great way to get into tempranillo.  ($26.00)  Highly Recommended
13.5%  Screwcap LJ

We also reviewed the 2008 Pizzini Sangiovese Shiraz in our June issue. It fits in very well with this stylish and original set of reds. Here is the published review:

A youthful yet surprisingly complex red which shows some of the classic bun spice sangiovese character. “Delicious” comes to mind as the best descriptor of this vibrant, easy to drink, medium-bodied red. ($16.50) *** Excellent Value*** Highly Recommended
13.8% Screwcap
www.pizzini.com.au

Stunning Chardonnay

Gippsland looms as Australia’s next big thing in wine regions, and the 2007 Caledonia Australis Reserve Chardonnay demonstrates why. Made by Martin Williams, this wine may well be his best so far. It has tightness, structure and restraint that is more French than Australian, treading the style line between Chablis and Corton-Charlemagne. The intense fruit is supported by seamless oak, and a whiff of struck match funk. It’s a must-try wine.  ($47.95)  Outstanding 
14.0%  Screwcap LJ
www.caledoniaaustralis.com

Some people think that sweet fizz is a frivolous drop. We disagree. Like every wine style, sweet sparkling has its place, and this take on moscato is worthy of notice. The 2009 Schild Estate Three Springs is made from riesling, and its freshness, varietal purity and light sparkle enliven the palate. Try it at Sunday brunch.  ($16.00)  Recommended 
9.5%  Crown cap LJ

Brown Brothers presented the 2009 release of their Patricia wines to the wine press recently. This affforded another opportunity to taste the red wines and look for the first time at the sparkling and sweet wines.

2004 Patricia Sparkling Pinot Noir/ Chardonnay/ Pinot Meunier Beautiful yeasty brioche nose. The palate is an explosion of flavour which leaves the mouth feeling clean and refreshed. Incredibly long lingering, creamy flavours. In the very top echelon of Australian sparkling wine. ($39.90) Outstanding
12% Cork LS & TW

2004 Patricia Cabernet Sauvignon Wow! Absolutely varietal. This is cabernet on a stick. Nose of dried tobacco leaf, crushed leaves and cassis. Super cool and fine. The tannins are talcy and superbly structured to carry the fruit. The palate is long and persistent. This is a masterclass on the use of (French) oak. You know it's there but it's beautifully integrated. Cellar for 8/10 years. ($55.90) Highly Recommended
13.5% Cork LS & TW

2006 Patricia Noble Riesling The best Patricia NR of the decade. Aromas of apricot nectar and rich desserts like treacle pudding swirl around in the glass. Everything suggests this is going to be a big cloying sticky. Yet there is incredible fineness on the palate and a cleansing, balancing acid backbone that only riesling can provide. We couldn't spit it out. Sealed under screwcap, this will keep for a long time. ($34.90 375ml) Outstanding
8.5% Screwcap LS & TW

2007 Robert Oatley Shiraz is impressive. The blend of 70% Frankland River and 30% Mudgee material works well, producing a vibrant young red with overtones of blackberry, violets and spice. The tannin and oak handling are spot-on, encouraging drinkers to enjoy the youthful fruitiness right now.  ($24.00) Highly Recommended   Excellent Value 
14.5%  Screwcap LJ

2006 Murray Street Vineyards The Barossa is very aptly named. Murray Street Vineyards, of Greenock in the Barossa Valley, has created a big impression in a short time. The blend of shiraz, grenache, mataro and cinsaut encapsulates what the Barossa is all about – warmth, generosity and earthiness. It’s a very appealing drink that suits a wide range of foods, particularly autumn-winter red meat and fungi dishes.  ($30.00)  Highly Recommended 
15.0%  Screwcap LJ
www.murraystreet.com.au

2004 Tyrrells Stevens Hunter Semillon If you've never tasted Hunter semillon before, get ready for an exciting introduction. For those who are fans of the style, this is one of the current bargains. Multi Trophy and Gold Medal winner, this wine is lively and vibrant yet displays the attractive vanilla aromas of a maturing wine. The colour belies its age - served blind in a recent tasting, most of my wine students could not believe the wine was 5 years old. Back in February last year when we first reviewed the wine we said: "Fresh, intense fruit shines on a long, crisp palate. Highly Recommended ". The wine has aged superbly and that description still stands but I would now rate it Outstanding. While it's now drinking beautifully, it will certainly improve with further cellaring - a classic Hunter semillon in the making. Be quick at this pricing ($18.00-$24.00).
11% Screwcap LS

2008 Plantagenet Omrah Sauvignon Blanc  This wine wasn’t available for our sauvignon blanc tasting in the February issue, but it would have fared very well indeed. It’s not aggressively sauvignon, but it does have strong varietal character and a touch of minerality. The intensity of flavour and dryness on the palate are both very impressive. This isn’t a “one glass” sauvignon blanc: it’s one to enjoy with food, and any time you like.  ($18.00)  Excellent Value  Highly Recommended 
13.5%  Screwcap LJ
Tasted February 2009

2008 Plantagenet Omrah Unoaked Chardonnay  I’m a great fan of classic, unwooded chablis and, sadly, it’s rare to come across an Australian chardonnay that even comes close. That’s why I’m so enthusiastic about this wine. It’s not as uncompromisingly austere as great chablis, but it has the purity of varietal flavour and zippy acidity. A beautifully made, early-drinking style.  ($18.00)  Excellent Value  Highly Recommended 
13.5%  Screwcap LJ
Tasted February 2009

2007 Heemskerk Coal River Riesling  Tasmanian riesling continues to emerge. This is an adventurous wine in that it had significant lees contact during the six months it spent in stainless steel, followed by a period in wooden vat on pinot gris lees. The handling was quite oxidative. The result is a very fresh riesling with decidedly grapefruity characteristics and a wonderfully minerally complexity and texture. It’s bone dry and should age well.  ($40.00)  Highly Recommended   
12.5%  Screwcap LJ
Tasted February 2009

2007 Heemskerk Coal River Coal River Chardonnay  A very restrained chardonnay with cool area honeydew melon and citrus varietal notes. There’s a touch of matchstick complexity and the palate is fine (but not green) and beautifully textured. This wine should be impressive with bottle age.  ($50.00)  Highly Recommended 
13.5%  Screwcap LJ
Tasted February 2009

Over the past couple of years, there has been a small but significant move towards sweet riesling. This has probably been inspired by the renewed interest in German rieslings, particularly those of Ernie Loosen and Egon Müller. For those of us old enough to remember, it creates waves of nostalgia. Australia once had a number of “spätlese” styles, notably from Leo Buring and Orlando. We hope more Australian riesling makers join the push. In the meantime, we have two classy recent releases for you:

2008 Hanging Rock The Jim Jim RS Fifty Riesling  This is a richly flavoured, decidedly limey riesling in which the sweetness is beautifully balanced by lively acidity. It’s the sort of wine that can be enjoyed on its own as a leisurely afternoon drink, or you could try it with fresh berries.  ($27.00)  Highly Recommended  9.5%  Screwcap  LJ
www.hangingrock.com.au
Tasted February 2009

2008 Frogmore Creek FGR Riesling  Tasmania is going to carve itself a very strong niche for riesling, both dry and sweet. As a devotée of German riesling, I often marvel at the seamless intermingling of fruit and sugar, and the equally seamless transition to an incredibly delicate, clean acid finish. This wine is very much in that league. The lemony, appley aromas and flavours are wonderfully enticing in themselves, but it’s the fineness of this wine and the delicate balancing of fruit, sweetness and acidity that make it so good.  ($24.00)  Excellent Value
Outstanding  8.5%  Screwcap  LJ
www.frogmorecreek.com.au
Tasted February 2009

David Bicknell, of Oakridge Estate, is, in our view, one of Australia’s most gifted winemakers. He’s turned out some magnificent wines under the Oakridge label, but the true measure of a wine producer is the ability to deliver at all price points. “Over The Shoulder” is Oakridge’s “entry level” label, and the latest releases are wines worthy of your attention.  LJ

2008 Over The Shoulder Yarra Valley Pinot Grigio  Those looking for a serious Australian version of the flinty Italian style will be happy with this. The palate is dry, but delivers plenty of fresh, clearly defined pear varietal character. What’s more, all this has been achieved without phenolic coarseness.  ($19.50)  Excellent Value
Highly Recommended 
12.5%  Screwcap LJ
Tasted February 2009

2008 Over The Shoulder Yarra Valley Chardonnay  The around $20.00 chardonnay market segment has really hotted up, and this one holds its own. The delicate white peach fruit combines beautifully with a touch of barrel ferment nuttiness and the palate is long, dry and racy. The cleansing acid lingers delightfully on the finish.  ($19.50)  Excellent Value Highly Recommended 
12.5%  Screwcap LJ
Tasted February 2009

2008 Oakridge Limited Release Fumé Blanc  I may create controversy with this rating, but I feel strongly that this is a ground-breaking wine. It’s only 11.5% alcohol, but the aromas and flavours are not green in any way. A combination of wild yeast ferment and input from (sweaty) thiols imparts a definite funkiness to the nose, but the palate is what this wine is all about. The title “fume blanc” may be a bit retro, but it accurately conveys the character of this acid-fresh, complex, varietal white that is so different to the standard Marlborough style, it doesn’t bear comparison.  ($32.00) Outstanding 
11.5%  Screwcap LJ
Tasted February 2009

2008 Oakridge Limited Release Viognier  This is a highly adventurous, super-sweet white made by crushing frozen, hand-picked grapes at -10C.  The nose has a lot of punch, and a whiff of VA, but it’s within bounds. Viognier varietal character is so concentrated that a reasonable descriptor would be “apricot nectar”. A decidedly individual wine.  ($40.00/375ml) Highly Recommended 
10.5%  Screwcap LJ
www.oakridgewines.com.au
Tasted February 2009

2007 Kyeema Vineyard Canberra District Reserve Shiraz  Andrew McEwin has happily embraced the contemporary regional style with this very impressive shiraz. It has the concentration of old vine fruit, but there's nothing ponderous about this wine. It's spicy, vibrant and medium-bodied, yet long-flavoured. The tannins have a fineness that reflects meticulous winemaking. Add this wine to a growing list of top-class Canberra district shiraz.  ($52.00)  Highly Recommended  LJ Tasted February 2009

Note: Andrew McEwin, the maker of this wine, is a Director of Winewise Magazine. He was not present when this wine was tasted, and the review is solely the opinion of Winewise editor, Lester Jesberg.

2006 Shaw Vineyard Estate Cabernet Merlot
Graeme Shaw's vineyard consistently produces the best cabernet in the Canberra region and this wine continues on from the successful 2004 vintage. The wine exhibits pristine varietal aromas on a finely structured palate that is elegant, long and flavoursome. Will reward short/medium term cellaring. ($22.00) Excellent Value Outstanding Trophy Winner at 2008 National Cool Climate Wine Show
Tasted November 2008

Trophy Winners 2008

2007 Mistletoe Reserve Chardonnay
Over the last few years, winemaker Nick Paterson has justifiably earned a reputation as a fine Chardonnay maker - the 2006 Reserve Chardonnay winning a Trophy at this year's Small Vigneron Awards, amongst other accolades. The 2007 continues in this vein with a malty, creamy style most un-Hunter like but reminiscent of good Burgundies. It has a persistent, finely textured palate beautifully balanced by vibrant acidity. ($25.00) Excellent Value Outstanding Trophy Winner at 2008 NSW Wine Awards
Tasted October 2008

2008 Chalkers Crossing Riesling
This is a very fine example of the variety and one of the best of the wines of this vintage. The wine has alluring aromas of apple blossom with limey overtones and a very crisp, zesty long palate which satisfies and refreshes. Watch out also for the stunning 2005 Hilltops Shiraz. ($18.00) Excellent Value Highly Recommended Trophy Winner at 2008 NSW Wine Awards
Tasted October 2008

2006 Yalumba The Scribbler Cabernet Shiraz
A new release from Yalumba whose reds have improved remarkably in recent years. And what a bargain it is too! This wine shows that the Barossa can at times produce a varietal cabernet, albeit in this case, blended with some shiraz. The wine displays spicy blackcurrant aromas and flavours in a fleshy style which is underscored by long, fine grained tannins. It's great drinking now but should improve in the short/medium term. ($18.00) Excellent Value Highly Recommended Gold Medal at 2008 Barossa Wine Show
Tasted November 2008

Coming Soon: An Indexed Discoveries Archive!